The Taste of Salt is
oh so sweet
It’s been on my bucket list for many a year to experience
the “Ghost” of the flats, and with nearly eighteen months in the planning the
trip became reality in mid-June of this year.
I had teamed up with Fly Odyssey
who made the booking and looked after all the necessary arrangements, it made
life so simple with a group of us and nothing to worry about apart from
remembering the fishing gear and passports. I can’t speak highly enough about
them and the professional service we received was second to none.
After many a restless night in anticipation of the trip, I
finally boarded the plane with the nine hour journey direct into Cancun. Nothing could have prepared me for what lay
ahead, as others jumped into taxis and buses at the airport with only a short
trip to their all-inclusive package holiday destinations several hours travel
still beckoned. Our friendly mini bus driver welcomed us aboard and onward to
Tulum which took a couple of hours. It was also a chance to grab a bite to eat
and a few liquid refreshments at one of the many al-fresco restaurants along
the main Tulum road.
The journey from Tulum almost 50 kilometers south was one of
pure adventure. The dirt track, yes
track was strewed with potholes and the recent rain had filled most of these
making the journey slow but one that built up the anticipation even
further. We were in raw Mexico, and
finally the tiny Mayan fishing village was a welcome sight. Casa Viejo Chac was the residence for the
week, set in Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve in the South-eastern Mexican state of
Quintana Roo. A fascinating journey which
is dotted along the route with the ruined temples from the Ancient Mayans.
On arrival I was
greeted by Manuel a legend in his own right, both in the local area and amongst
the saltwater aficionado that he welcomes on a regular basis. He has been guiding the flats of Ascension
Bay for many a year, now semi-retired but never far from the action. His knowledge and tales are invaluable, a few
cold beers and I settled into a comfortable room for the evening. I certainly didn’t get much sleep that first
night, it wasn’t the jet lag to blame but pure adrenalin and anticipation of
what lay ahead.
I was up at the crack of dawn and buzzing to get started, my
roommate quickly reminded me it was only 4.30am and breakfast was a good two
hours away. That two hours really
dragged and then I heard the coffee and tea being put out for the guests
and that was my queue. Proper coffee kicked started the day coupled
with a good breakfast I gathered my thoughts and set to. I had brought with me a 9ft #8 weight rod for
the bonefish and 9ft #10 weight rod for the Permit, Tarpon and Barracuda that
patrol the waters. Both rods lined up
with the Rio Bonefish QuickShooter and Tarpon QuickShooter respectively. A variety of tapered leaders and several
boxes of Fulling Mill saltwater patterns made up my arsenal for the flats.
After the introductions with guides and my partner for the
day sorted I was on my way, the slow walk from the Chac to the Pangas. It was without doubt a morning made in heaven
as the journey meandered through the maze of mangroves and lagoons then finally
onto the flats. What seemed an endless
expanse of flats coupled with a diverse array of bird and wildlife helped
heighten the anticipation. I could only
draw an imaginary comparison as to what I felt that morning to a football
player walking out at packed Wembley stadium in front of their adorning
supporters.
The scene was set and what a backdrop it was, I was fully
prepared and ready to go, it was now up to me.
I opened the fly boxes so my guide could take a look and dare I say he
was like a kid in a candy shop. He spent
very little time in selecting his fly of choice, a Skinny Shrimp Tan. Throughout the week lightweight patterns with
rubber legs seemed to be the go to choice for Bonefish for all of the guides I
spent time with.
I moved up to the bow of the Panga and Christian was poling us
through the flats, Choucho the second pair of eyes. These guys have eyes like hawks not only on
the flats but in the deeper water and can see permit or the tell-tale signs of
bonefish from a great distance. I was
convinced during the week that Costa had developed a pair of glasses for these
guys that enabled them to lock onto the fish.
But as I know all too well its time on the water and being one with your
environment and quarry that is the key.
The first few shoals of bonefish were extremely spooky but taking
our time through the water the eagle eyes came across a small shoal of about a
dozen or so fish. They were tucked tight
into the margins, Christian poled us slowly into position and the instructions
came almost immediately “Bonefish 3 oclock 45ft”, it was into a strong headwind
as to be expected so every ounce of my casting experience came to the
fore. I didn’t want to let this
opportunity pass me by as well. I landed
the fly a good five feet to the left of them, bang on as they were slowly
moving right to left and I knew I’d hit the money with the acknowledgment of
the guides . Choucho puts his hand out
and stops me from the retrieve and whispers “wait wait”, then as the fly settled
a puff of sand was the trigger. “Strip
strip strip” the bones were locked on.
In the back of my mind I had a voice “remember to strip strike, remember
to strip strike, remember to strip strike” almost like a slow beating drum time
and time again. Then
bang the Skinny Shrimp was engulfed with gusto and hell yes did I
remember to strip strike! Talk about
screaming reels, no You Tube video or magazine article can prepare you for what
is about to happen. This fish took off
at a rate of knots and in a blink of an eye had me down to the backing, when I
gained some semblance of order I had it under control and eventually enjoyed
the fight. It’s not just one run these
fish take but several and finally after an unbelievable scrap my first bonefish
was landed, knees and hands still shaking a quick mug shot and back.
One I will never ever forget, my childhood dream of landing
a bonefish on the fly was now reality and oh so sweet.
The rest of the week held more surprises with many a shot at
large permit, barracuda, Tarpon and the tricky snook which don’t give
themselves up easily. Ascension bay is
not only the Permit capital of the world but also the “Grand Slam”
capital. It certainly lives up to its
name and once you’ve got the bonefish fetish out of the way it’s onto something
different. Hunting the permit takes time
and covering many miles of water, patience and composure is the key.
The guides being very laid back one minute
and meandering across the flats an imaginary switch is triggered with them and cries
of “Palometa! Palometa” and your heart skips a beat. You have to step up to the plate and the
pressures on. I recall one of several
permit I had a shot at which was swimming between two large rays. Unknown to me
as I stood fully loaded at the bow with a flexo sand crab (06) in hand ready
for action, this is prime time to catch a fish of a life time. They are feeding with rays picking up any morsel
that the large fins of the rays churn up along the way. I spot the rays but unsighted on the permit and
make the cast some fifty or so feet ahead, I hit the target but not the right
target it was just behind the permit ! I daren’t put into print the words I
uttered as I knew my chance had gone.
The disappointment I felt after the hard work the guides put in to find
the fish was for all to see. I was
gutted. A few casts later and it was back
on the bones, the loss of the day was soon forgotten but one to analyse at the
bar later that evening.
Undeterred I managed a smaller permit later in the week
which made up for my loss earlier, I also had shot at the few tarpon that were
around but they certainly didn’t read my “Grand Slam” script.
Numerous bonefish, jack, permit, a few small tarpon and the
odd barracuda was the order of the week for the group. The experience and learning curve that such a
trip brings is invaluable and one that will be built on for next year’s
excursion. The week long salt water dream I lived it for sure, with great
banter and company coupled with awesome fishing it doesn’t get much better.
The days all rolled
into one and I soon forgot the pressures of work back home and the place lived up
to my expectations tenfold. Being based
in an environment that is so diverse, from one day to the next you never know what’s
round the corner. Nurse sharks, flamingos,
eagles, pelicans, vultures were for all to see on the travels. Wading waist deep in what can only be
described as very warm bath water, latching into rod bending, screaming reel
bonefish is indescribable. A pod of
dolphins greeting you as you take in lunch in the middle of the deeper ocean, a
truly magical place.
Ascension bay is very
much an unspoilt world and one that I hope will remain so, a place that is
rarely seen by the hordes of tourists that descend and stay in the lively
resort of Cancun. That just suits me fine. It’s a place that your fly fishing
dreams really do come true.
If you’re interested in joining us in 2017 then visit my website for more information.
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